
Bammy with some ginger ale.
One of the most wonderful pets my family ever had was Bammy, a blue jay that my brother brought home after finding the baby bird in the street near our house. The mostly bald baby Bammy was covered with mites, which was likely why he’d been tossed from the nest.
At the time, my mom was also raising two warblers whose parents had been killed by a car right in front of our house. Those babies, more developed than the jay, had become so hungry they’d likely left the nest seeking food, even though they weren’t yet able to fly.
Raising one baby bird is a chore. Raising three is exhausting. The high metabolic rate of baby birds means they can’t go long without a meal. A bird so young its eyes are still closed and it doesn’t yet have feathers must be fed every 15 to 20 minutes from sunrise to sunset. After their eyes are open and feathers have begun to appear, they only need fed every 30 to 45 minutes.
The schedule makes one admire the parenting moxie of birds.
When the warblers were full grown, we set them free. The male left, but the female, Goldie, chose to stay. As, a few months later, did the jay.
There was something damaged about Goldie. She wouldn’t have survived in the wild and seemed to be missing whatever birds have that normally prompts such natural bird activities as grooming. And flying. Goldie preferred to walk.
A few years after Goldie and Bammy had declared their intentions to live at our house permanently, a baby cowbird fell from its nest onto my parent’s brick patio, breaking its leg. Squeaky’s leg didn’t heal correctly, and although he could eventually fly, he couldn’t land without toppling, so he, too, chose to walk. Or hop.

Bammy sunbathing.
Bammy, though, was a world-class flyer. He would fly full speed at this decorative room divider that had angled slats four inches apart—he’d pull his wings closed for a split-second on one side and emerge and reopen his wings on the other. I used to expect he’d meet his end at that divider, that we’d find his body on one side and his wings on the other, but it was a combination of old age and pneumonia that did him in when he was nearly 12.
All these years later, we’ll still occasionally find some little reminder of him, like a peanut or some small treasure Bammy had stolen and tucked deep between the pages of a book. Sometimes, when I’m visiting my folks, I’ll be at the bathroom mirror and I can almost feel Bammy’s presence, as he would accompany me there every morning to groom himself while I fixed my hair. I don’t know that I’ve ever heard that sassy bluejay yell without thinking of him. He was this amazing, intelligent creature who we could’ve so easily missed out on getting to know.
Every Spring I’m reminded of my old bird friends when I hear someone talking about having found a baby bird and not knowing what to do. Often, the bird isn’t really abandoned, but only appears to be, yet if it actually is, there’s much to consider. One thing is that according to West Virginia Code 20-2-51 regarding the legalities of possessing a native wild animal, “The director may issue a permit to a person to keep and maintain in captivity as a pet,” but only as long as the wild animal or wild bird “has been acquired from a commercial dealer or during the legal open season.”
The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service is even tougher: “You must release all releasable recuperated birds to the wild as soon as seasonal conditions allow. Birds may not be held for more than 180 days.”
Thankfully, we knew none of this when we raised those birds, and I kind of doubt it would’ve stopped us if we had.
For those who find themselves faced with having to decide between attempting to rescue a foundling or leaving it to face nature’s wrath, I’ve cobbled together some tips that could help the noble scofflaws.
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Although I’m no expert at raising baby birds–I’ve failed nearly as often as I’ve succeeded—I’ve assembled some basics from my own experience, my mother’s, and from some online resources to help those who find themselves thrust into avian adoption.
Let me preface this all by saying I expect I’ll be hearing from Those People. You know who I mean. They insist orphaned creatures should never be assisted in any fashion, that nature should be allowed to run its course. But if letting nature run its course is the way things should be, then why do we even have veterinarians? Or physicians, for that matter?
Anyway, when dealing with a baby bird, there are some basics to consider, like if the baby bird is not on the ground, leave it alone. If it’s in the branches, out of reach of cats and other carnivores, it’s fine. But if the baby is on the ground—perhaps as a result of high winds or a badly anchored nest—it isn’t likely to survive. Assistance is called for.
(Unless you’re one of Those People, in which case I recommend you stop reading now and find something more to your liking, like one of those TV shows that feature lions killing antelope.)
I’ve read that returning the baby to the nest seldom works, that it’s better to instead put the baby bird in a shoebox with edges too high for it to hop over. Put the box up off the ground, where the parents can hear it. Despite what you might have heard, it doesn’t matter if a person has touched the bird–the parents will still care for it. But it needs to be put near the same area it was found so they’ll know where to look. Watch the box from a distance to see if the parent returns. If they aren’t feeding the baby within an hour to an hour and a half—congratulations! You may now pass out cigars. (“It’s a warbler!”)
Unfortunately, if the baby bird was a gift from your cat or dog, its odds aren’t good, even if the bird appears unharmed. Most will die of bacterial infection (combined with stress) in under a day unless treated quickly by a veterinarian.
Bird rehabilitation centers are best for the bird, but logistically, that’s not always possible. (Check with veterinarians or the humane society to find a rehabilitation center, or look online.) Even if a rehabilitation center is nearby, the baby bird will need cared for until it can be transported.
Baby birds need to be kept in a place that’s well-ventilated, clean, and has consistent temperature. Depending on how developed the bird is, a box usually works well for a while. Grass might seem like a natural thing to use for the bird, but it retains moisture and is hard to keep clean. Shredded, dye-free paper towels work better.
A heating pad placed under the box can help if the house is cold, just don’t make it too hot or the bird will become dehydrated. Putting an upside-down laundry basket over the box can prevent the bird from getting loose in your house in the event it hops out of the box.
Stress is one of the biggest dangers to baby birds, so it’s important to avoid excessive handling, especially by small children. Since the ultimate goal is to return the bird to the wild, minimal handling helps keep the bird from becoming overly comfortable with people.
According to a variety of internet sources, it seems that most wild baby birds can be fed the same type of diet in order to grow and thrive, regardless of whether the adult version of the baby is a seed eater or prefers dining on bugs. There are exceptions (especially with doves, carrion-eaters, and some others), so to find out what’s best for your baby, I’d recommend checking with a veterinarian or doing some research. Generally, however, the babies of most standard wild birds can be fed a diet that consists of hard-boiled eggs, Purina kitten chow that’s been soaked in warm water until soft, and mealworms (diced, if the worms are large).
If you squirm at the idea of dicing worms, consider and appreciate how much easier you have it than the delivery method of your new baby’s biological parents.
The three ingredients are NOT blended together. Vary the bites fed to the baby—two bites of softened kitten chow, one bite of egg, one worm. Repeat until full. Tweezers or wooden chopsticks are good food delivery devices, and wiggle-flapping the fingers as the bite is approaching can entice baby into opening its beak. That’s the bird parent’s variant of “Here comes the choo-choo.”
If the bird is stubborn about opening its beak, rub the chopstick or tweezers against the sides of the beak or give the box a little jarring to stimulate it to gape.
Mealworms are preferable to earthworms because earthworms contain whatever pathogens are in the soil, and they also carry parasites that can be deadly to baby birds. Mealworms have more protein and are more digestible for youngsters, and they’re inexpensive and readily available at most pet shops and feed stores. In a pinch, canned cat or dog food or raw hamburger can suffice until the Purina-egg-worm diet can be assembled. The consistency should be about the same as mashed potatoes or oatmeal.
Continue feeding until the bird starts behaving less enthusiastically. Don’t force one last bite. As the bird grows, it will eat more at each feeding, and the time between feedings will lessen. Once it’s strong enough to be hopping around, move the bird to a cage and begin putting a few food items in the cage. The bird will still need to be fed about every one to three hours, even after it begins pecking at food on its own.
Don’t give water until the bird is able to walk or perch on its own. If the bird seems dehydrated, seek veterinary care. The food can be moistened so that it isn’t at all dry, but squirting water into the bird’s mouth often goes its lungs. After the bird is walking around its cage or sitting on a perch, put in a few shallow containers of water. Change it often.
As the bird becomes stronger and more independent, begin giving it the foods it would normally feed on in the wild. For birds that eat seeds, a cockatiel seed mix is the best choice since it contains a grit that birds need for digestion. Adolescent birds can be just as lazy as human adolescents, and with you providing its meals, it can be difficult to get it to eat on its own. Gradually cut back what you offer when feeding by hand, then leave other foods in their cage for them to eat on their own.
Flight is instinctive for most birds, though their clumsy early attempts can be entertaining. (Warning: Laughing at a blue jay can be dangerous. They have better memories than elephants and will seek vengeance upon those who mock them.) When the bird seems ready to attempt flight, a screened-in porch is ideal. Allowing it to fly loose in the house can be dangerous because of ceiling fans, windows and mirrors, although our jay had full run of the house his entire life (12 years).
Knowing when to release the bird is difficult. They need to be eating well on their own and be confident fliers, but even then, the transition will still be dangerous for them. Some birds become so imprinted on their humans or never recover from an injury thoroughly enough that releasing them into the wild won’t succeed, and that’s where things get tricky.
Remember, according to State and federal code, keeping baby birds is against the law so you should minimize your contact with them. Handle the bird as seldom as you can. Keep their cage away from busy areas of the house and away from pets and children. Try to do the right thing until the bird can be released.
And then pretend it never happened.