The fire still burns: Centralia’s last days

February 8, 2010 by Ken Ward Jr.

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In this Wednesday, Jan. 13, 2010, photo, retired Centralia Postmaster Tom Dempsey is photographed with in an empty Centralia, Pa., as steam rises from the ground behind him. The steam is caused by a fire that burns underground. The fire began in 1962 at the town dump and ignited an exposed coal vein, eventually forcing an exodus of more than 1,000 people, nearly the entire population of this mountain town. Almost every house was demolished. After years of delay, state officials are trying to finish their demolition work in Centralia, a borough in the mountains of northeastern Pennsylvania that all but ceased to exist in the 1980s after a mine fire spread beneath homes and businesses. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)

Here’s an interesting story by Michael Rubinkam of The Associated Press

CENTRALIA, Pa.  — Standing before the wreckage of his bulldozed home, John Lokitis Jr. felt sick to his stomach, certain that a terrible mistake had been made.He’d fought for years to stay in the house. It was one of the few left standing in the moonscape of Centralia, a once-proud coal town whose population fled an underground mine fire that began in 1962 and continues to burn.

But the state had ordered Lokitis to vacate, leaving the fourth-generation Centralian little choice but to say goodbye — to the house, and to what’s left of the town he loved.

“I never had any desire to move,” said Lokitis, 39. “It was my home.”

After years of delay, state officials are now trying to complete the demolition of Centralia, a borough in the mountains of northeastern Pennsylvania that all but ceased to exist in the 1980s after the mine fire spread beneath homes and businesses, threatening residents with poisonous gases and dangerous sinkholes.

More than 1,000 people moved out, and 500 structures were razed under a $42 million federal relocation program.

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In this Feb. 14, 1981, file photo, Todd Domboski, 12, of Centralia, Pa., looks over a barricade at the hole he fell through just hours before this photo was taken in Centralia, Pa. The hole was cause by a mine fire that had been burning since 1962. After years of delay, state officials are trying to finish their demolition work in Centralia, a borough in the mountains of northeastern Pennsylvania that all but ceased to exist in the 1980s after a mine fire spread beneath homes and businesses. (AP Photo, File)

But dozens of holdouts, Lokitis included, refused to go — even after their houses were seized through eminent domain in the early 1990s. They said the fire posed little danger to their part of town, accused government officials and mining companies of a plot to grab the mineral rights and vowed to stay put. State and local officials had little stomach to oust the diehards, who squatted tax- and rent-free in houses they no longer owned.

Steve Fishman, attorney for the state Department of Community and Economic Development, said “benign neglect” on the part of state and local officials allowed the residents to stay for so long.

No more.

Fishman told The Associated Press that the state is moving as quickly as possible to take possession of the remaining homes and get them knocked down.

“Everyone agreed that we needed to move this along,” he said.

In 2006, there were 16 properties left standing. A year ago, the town was down to 11. Now there are five houses occupied with fewer than a dozen holdouts.

Centralia appears to be entering its final days.

The remaining holdouts, weary after decades of media scrutiny, rarely give interviews. But the town’s 86-year-old mayor, Carl Womer, said he doubts he’ll have to go. Indeed, Lokitis and others believe that elderly residents will be allowed to live out their final years in Centralia — even after a Columbia County judge decides next month how much they should be paid for their homes.

“Nothing’s happened. We’re still here,” said Womer, whose wife, Helen, who died in 2001, was an implacable foe of relocation. “No one’s told us to move.”

Like Womer, resident John Lokitis Sr., 68, father of Lokitis Jr., was polite but short. “Why worry about it? When it comes, it comes. I don’t give a rat’s ass,” he said, shutting the door.

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In this Wednesday, Jan. 13, 2010, photo, the empty town of Centralia, Pa., is seen from above. After years of delay, state officials are trying to finish their demolition work in Centralia, a borough in the mountains of northeastern Pennsylvania that all but ceased to exist in the 1980s after a mine fire spread beneath homes and businesses. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)

Those who remain in Centralia like to keep up appearances. In mid-January, Christmas decorations still adorned the street lamps, a large manger scene occupied a corner of the main intersection and a 2010 calendar hung in the empty borough building. But the holdouts are fighting a losing battle. The building’s wooden facade is in dire need of a paint job; in the Odd Fellows Cemetery, vandals recently knocked over dozens of tombstones. Nature has reclaimed parts of the town.

In reality, Centralia is already a memory — an intact street grid with hardly anything on it. All the familiar places that define a town — churches, businesses, schools, homes — are long gone.

A hand-lettered sign tacked to a tree near Womer’s home directs tourists to a rocky outcropping off the main street where opaque clouds of steam rise from the ground.

“It was a real community, and people loved the place,” said author and journalist Dave DeKok, who has been writing about Centralia for 30 years and recently published “Fire Underground,” an updated version of his 1986 book on the town. “People lived their entire lives in that town and would have been quite happy to get rid of the mine fire and keep on living there.”

With swifter action, DeKok said, that might have been Centralia’s destiny.

The fire began at the town dump and ignited an exposed coal vein. It could have been extinguished for thousands of dollars then, but a series of bureaucratic half-measures and a lack of funding allowed the fire to grow into a voracious monster — feeding on millions of tons of slow-burning anthracite coal in the abandoned network of mines beneath the town.

At first, most Centralians ignored the fire. Some denied its existence, choosing to disregard the threat.

That changed in the 1970s, when carbon monoxide began entering homes and sickening people. The beginning of the end came in 1981, when a cave-in sucked a 12-year-old boy into a hot, gaseous void, nearly killing him. The town divided into two warring camps, one in favor of relocation and one opposed.

Finally, in 1983, the federal government appropriated $42 million to acquire and demolish every building in Centralia. Nearly everyone participated in the voluntary buyouts; by 1990, Census figures showed only 63 people remaining.

Two years later, Gov. Robert Casey decided to shut the town, saying the fire had become too dangerous. The holdouts fought condemnation, blocking appraisers from entering their homes. The legal process eventually ground to a halt.

Until recently, Lokitis Jr., who works a civilian job with the state police in Harrisburg, had been one of Centralia’s most vocal defenders — star of a 2007 documentary on Centralia. He expressed hope that it could stage a comeback, claiming the fire had gone out or moved away.

State officials say the fire continues to burn uncontrolled and could for hundreds of years, until it runs out of fuel. One of their biggest concerns is the danger to tourists who often cluster around steam vents on unstable ground.

While Lokitis felt he was in no danger, he had little recourse than to move from his late grandfather’s two-story row home on West Park Street when an order to vacate arrived, one of two such notices sent last year.

Now living a few miles away, he tacked a sign on the front porch of the old homestead. “REQUIESCAT IN PACE” — rest in peace, it said. “SORRY POP.”

He couldn’t bear to watch the home get knocked down a few weeks before Christmas. But he couldn’t stay away, either, going back after the wrecking crew had finished its work.

“It was part of my life for all 39 years, that house,” he said. “It was difficult to leave it and difficult to see it demolished.”

Difficult, too, to give up his dream of Centralia’s rebirth.

“I’d always hoped the town would come back and be rebuilt,” Lokitis said, “but I guess that’s never going to happen.”

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In this April, 1981, file photo, U.S. Bureau of Mines’ John Stockalis, right, and Dan Lewis drop a thermometer through a hole on Main Street in Centralia, Pa., to measure the heat from a shaft mine blaze that burns under the town. After years of delay, state officials are trying to finish their demolition work in Centralia, a borough in the mountains of northeastern Pennsylvania that all but ceased to exist in the 1980s after a mine fire spread beneath homes and businesses. (AP Photo/Paul Vathis, File)

8 Responses to “The fire still burns: Centralia’s last days”

  1. [...] month, I posted an AP story on Coal Tattoo with the headline “The Fire Still Burns:  Centralia’s Last Days.” But now, we have the following AP story about a legal effort to save the [...]

  2. DB says:

    Excellent article, I love the photos and the graph. I just heard about the Centralia fire this evening, and did a Google search – finding this page.

    Although the “fire” seems to be south of the town, I feel that it was in fact appropriate to have citizens leave. The true extent of the fire is uncertain, and as the rock becomes gaseous it is too unstable for permanent structures.

    Tom Dempsey’s story touches my heart, I really feel regret for all of the history that was erased by the demolishing of homes. I think it was unnecessary.

  3. Karl Logan says:

    I don’t know what to make of this story—I was just to Centralia, Oct of 2010, and I found an intact home with “Lokitis” on the mailbox outside of it. It was on the very end of a street just below the Womer residence on Wood St, and you couldn’t really see it from Locust Ave (Rt 61). In fact, the old pickup truck was still parked outside–the same one in the film “The Town that wasn’t there” which profiled Lokitis. Can anyone tell me what’s up with this? I can swear to the fact that Lokitis is still there, and can even post a photo to anyone interested!

    Karl Logan

  4. Lisa Brown says:

    I am interested. I just watch the The Town that Wasn’t There last night. I grew up near Centralia, and we would travel through there now and then on the way up to see family in Danville or trips to Knoebel’s. When I saw the film was from 2007, I was curious what happened to John Lokitis.

    He is my polar opposite. Where as I could not leave the Coal Region fast enough, he fought so hard to stay. I found his fight quite admirable, because it wasn’t just about keeping his home, it was also about one day bringing the community back to life again. I was touched by how he would gaze off after telling the documentarians a story or showing them where something had been. It was as if before his eyes it all reappeared again. Where most of us only see emptiness and abandon, he sees people and celebrations and summer days playing in his cousins’ yard. I know that feeling, too. I would get that every time I would go back to the house I grew up in to see my Dad. I would always see my Mom there, too, although she had passed away several years ago.

    His story was not about being stubborn, but about refusing to have a community die and never live again.

  5. Daniel C-W says:

    I was there just this past weekend. The houses standing in the 2007 documentary were the houses being demolished houses mentioned in this article.

    I had mixed feelings about my visit there. A part of me was in awe at the rising steam and desolation of the town. The other part was sad to see the nothingness that had been left where the lives of many had been.

    I really hope that this place is never forgotten, but with the mystique generated by the media and internet, I don’t ever think it will.

  6. Danielle B says:

    It breaks my heart to read about the final, forced evacuation of Centralia’s remaining residents. The 2007 documentary gave a much more personalized view of the town and the folks who fought so hard to keep it alive, but seeing it in person was striking, to say the least. I visited in the summer of 2007 and was touched by the level of care with which the land was maintained – now I understand that it was largely John Lokitis, Jr’s efforts that had kept it so. Witnessing this directly, and now knowing more to the story – well, it honestly sickens me to read that he and the other residents of Centralia were forced to leave. I fully feel that there was no risk in their making the decision to remain, and wish them the best as they move forward from this point on.

  7. John N says:

    Why did they make the younger Lotikis move and then destroy his house? He had kept it up beautifully, and was the steward of the town and a walking archive of its history. What government official has such a cruel spirit, and can even provide a decent reason, for making this man leave? He was comfortable there, aware of any possible risk, and was not being burned, sinking into the ground, or being poisoned by C02.

    America is turning into a mean, unfeeling place, and the government is out of touch with truth or the basic rights of it citizens. I would not have let them take it, if it were my house. I’d have destroyed their bulldozer and gotten a crowd of people to bar the way onto the property, “eminent domain” or not. What a bunch of mean jerks. Long live Centralia and John Lotikis Jr.

  8. Ann S. says:

    My grandparents lived in Centralia till their dying day. My grandfather was a miner, who work at the Centralia mines. It was a beautiful little town, where everyone knew everyone. It makes me sad to see it now. I can remember a little bit of how it looked when there was still houses and life in the little town. I wish I had more pictutres, because slowly I’m forgetting and the pictures in my mind are getting fuzzy. I grew up there, and later moved to the neighboring town of Ashland. I went to the catholic school at the top of Centralia (most of the town kids did) and we walked to school everyday. We played in the ally, rode our bikes, and went to the park. On sundays we went to church. All the kids were friends and played together. There will never be another town like it. It is sadly missed.

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